Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Square Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Square Cut Ruby
Ours carries a full brilliant facet set on a square: 69 facets, a 41.39° pavilion and 65.0% depth.
In ruby it returns 78 for brilliance, well behind the T73, and leaks 16% of the light. It holds what it has when tipped, Tilt 84, but by our rule that counts only for a stone close to the baseline's light.
Square rubies are less common than ovals and cushions, because a square outline wastes more of the flat rough. When one is wanted, the choice is between this brilliant, the cushion, the princess and the step-cut emerald square, and our numbers rank them clearly.
Square cut ruby: good or bad? Pros and cons
Pros
None by our margins. Tilt is high, 84, but on less light.
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby and with the Square Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Square Cut in ruby (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: ahead on 2, level on 2, behind on 4.
Global75, the comparison 79, difference −4
Brilliance78, the comparison 94, difference −16
Fire45, the comparison 37, difference +8
Scintillation78, the comparison 80, difference −2
Spread98, the comparison 100, difference −2
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm102, the comparison 102, difference 0
Tilt84, the comparison 75, difference +9
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
We found no score where the square beats the T73 in ruby or the square in diamond by our margins. Tilt, 84 against 75, is the nearest, but with Brilliance 78 it keeps a large share of a smaller amount. Fire is 45, above the T73's 37, yet it is the diamond comparison that counts for fire, and there it loses. What it offers is a crisp square face, steady as it moves.
Where the square cut falls short in ruby
Less fire than a diamond square
Fire 45 against 72 for the Square Cut in diamond: 27 points lower
Fire 45 against 72. In ruby the square sits between the rounds and the elongated cuts for colour.
Square Cut in ruby · Fire 45
Square Cut in diamond · Fire 72
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: Square brilliants sit in the middle for fire; an Oval Cut Ruby ruby reaches 74.
Brilliance 78 against 94 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 16 points lower
Brilliance 78 against 94. The corners put pavilion facets at angles a round does not have, and some of the light reaching them escapes.
Square Cut in ruby · Brilliance 78
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Brilliance 94
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
What helps: Round off the corners and the light comes back: the Cushion Cut Ruby returns 88 in ruby.
Leakage 16 against 5 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 11 points higher
16% of the light leaves through the pavilion, against 5% for the T73 in ruby. At 41.39° the pavilion is above the 36.4° guide minimum, so it is not a shallow-pavilion window.
Square Cut in ruby · Leakage 16
0° · 16% leak
10° · 14% leak
20° · 30% leak
30° · 32% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Leakage 5
0° · 1% leak
10° · 10% leak
20° · 29% leak
30° · 30% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: The rounded-corner Cushion Cut Ruby loses 11%, and a smaller square loses the same share as a larger one.
The square suits a ruby in a geometric setting, or one that will be seen from many angles: it loses little light as it tilts. Face-up, a round ruby is clearly brighter.