Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Old European Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Old European Cut Ruby
Once bruting was mechanised, the old mine's facets could sit on a true circle, and the Old European cut was the result. We measured a 74-facet model with a 45.0% table under a tall 35.0° crown, over a 41.5° pavilion, 64.7% deep overall.
In diamond it comes close to a modern round. In ruby it does not: the T73 returns 94 where the Old European returns 78, and the leak climbs from 5% to 22%.
Its pavilion is not to blame in the usual way. At 41.5° it sits above ruby's guide minimum of 36.4°, so this is not the window of a shallow stone; the census lights the ruby from a wide cone, and corundum lets more of the off-axis light through.
Is an Old European cut right for ruby? Pros and cons
Pros
None by our margins. Its Tilt of 87 comes with a dimmer face, so we do not count it.
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby and with the Old European Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Old European Cut in ruby (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: ahead on 4, level on 1, behind on 3.
Global74, the comparison 79, difference −5
Brilliance78, the comparison 94, difference −16
Fire39, the comparison 37, difference +2
Scintillation81, the comparison 80, difference +1
Spread98, the comparison 100, difference −2
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm122, the comparison 102, difference +20
Tilt87, the comparison 75, difference +12
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
No score beats the T73 in ruby or the Old European in diamond by our margins. Tilt reads 87 against 75, but Brilliance is 78 against 94, and our rule counts tilt only for a stone close to the baseline's light. What it offers instead is the period outline and its high crown on a hard, everyday stone.
The Old European's costs in ruby
Far less fire than the diamond version
Fire 39 against 74 for the Old European Cut in diamond: 35 points lower
Diamond gives this cut 74 for fire; corundum gives it 39. The high 35.0° crown would spread colour well in a stone with more dispersion, but corundum has little to spread.
Old European Cut in ruby · Fire 39
Old European Cut in diamond · Fire 74
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: Corundum sets the ceiling, and no antique round lifts it. Among all our ruby cuts the Oval Cut Ruby leads for fire at 74.
Leakage 22 against 5 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 17 points higher
About a fifth, 22%, leaves through the pavilion of the ruby, where the T73 loses 5%. With a 34.6° critical angle, more of the light that reaches the pavilion at a slant passes straight through.
Old European Cut in ruby · Leakage 22
0° · 25% leak
10° · 16% leak
20° · 34% leak
30° · 37% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Leakage 5
0° · 1% leak
10° · 10% leak
20° · 29% leak
30° · 30% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: Steeper mains are not the answer, since the pavilion already clears ruby's 36.4° guide minimum. A modern plan is: DG-Anteros Ruby leaks 3% in ruby.
Brilliance 78 against 94 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 16 points lower
Brilliance 78 against 94. The light that leaks is light that never comes back through the crown, so these two cons are one problem seen twice.
Old European Cut in ruby · Brilliance 78
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Brilliance 94
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
The Old European suits a ruby meant for a period piece, where the small table and tall crown are the look and some loss of light is acceptable. It is the brightest antique cut we measure in ruby, though well behind any modern round.