Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Old European Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Old European Cut Amethyst
The Old European cut put the old mine's facets on a round outline once bruting became mechanical, from the 1870s onward. Our model has 74 facets, a small 45.0% table, a tall 35.0° crown and a 41.5° pavilion, 64.7% deep.
In diamond it comes within a few points of the T73. In amethyst it does not: Brilliance 59 against 72, and 41% of the light leaking against 28%. Its pavilion is above the guide minimum of 40.4°, so a shallow pavilion is not the reason.
It keeps all of its face-up light when tipped, Tilt 100, but a steady share of a smaller amount does not count as a pro.
Is the Old European a good cut for amethyst? Pros and cons
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst and with the Old European Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Old European Cut in amethyst (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: ahead on 4, level on 1, behind on 3.
Global67, the comparison 70, difference −3
Brilliance59, the comparison 72, difference −13
Fire37, the comparison 36, difference +1
Scintillation81, the comparison 80, difference +1
Spread98, the comparison 100, difference −2
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm92, the comparison 77, difference +15
Tilt100, the comparison 80, difference +20
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Fire 37 against 74 for the Old European Cut in diamond: 37 points lower
The tall crown and small table give the diamond version strong colour. Quartz, dispersing under a third as strongly, keeps about half of it.
Old European Cut in amethyst · Fire 37
Old European Cut in diamond · Fire 74
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: An antique round cannot fix this; for colour, the Oval Cut Amethyst scores 69 in quartz.
Leakage 41 against 5 for the Old European Cut in diamond: 36 points higher
In amethyst 41% of the light in our census leaves through the pavilion; the diamond version loses 5%. The diamond's strip shows its own small leak growing as it tips.
Old European Cut in amethyst · Leakage 41
0° · 38% leak
10° · 43% leak
20° · 36% leak
30° · 47% leak
Old European Cut in diamond · Leakage 5
0° · 3% leak
10° · 7% leak
20° · 10% leak
30° · 17% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: Not by steepening: the pavilion is at 41.5°, above the 40.4° guide minimum. The T73 Round Brilliant Amethyst leaks 28% in amethyst; size changes neither share.
Brilliance 59 against 90 for the Old European Cut in diamond: 31 points lower
Diamond's index of 2.417 holds the light this cut sends down. Quartz's 1.55 lets much of it through the back, and that is where the brilliance goes.
Old European Cut in amethyst · Brilliance 59
Old European Cut in diamond · Brilliance 90
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
Spread 98 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: 2 points lower
At 64.7% deep it is a little narrower than the T73 at the same carat weight.
Old European Cut · 6.94 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 98
T73 Round Brilliant · 7.12 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 100
Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in amethyst and are drawn to the same scale, from each cut's own model. Spread is face-up size per carat: a deeper stone carries more weight below the girdle and looks smaller for its weight.
What helps: Choose by millimetres: a 6.5 mm Old European is 0.82 ct in amethyst.
Choose the Old European in amethyst for the antique look in a period-style ring, and expect a darker face than a modern round.
Of the antique cuts we measure in amethyst it is still the brightest: the Old Mine returns 38, the Mazarin 43. Its small table and tall crown also keep more depth of colour above the girdle, which suits a pale stone.