Cutting amethyst (quartz)
Amethyst is purple quartz, and quartz has one of the lowest refractive indices of the common faceting materials. Its critical angle is large, so designs made for diamond window badly unless the pavilion is steepened. It is also a favourite first stone for cutters, and quartz is where most faceting designs are first tested.
Amethyst often shows colour zoning. Cutters orient the rough so the darker zone sits low in the pavilion, where the facets spread its colour across the face-up stone.
Amethyst optical properties
Where a property has a range, angles are calculated from the lower refractive index, which gives the stricter limit.
Every cut, measured in amethyst
For each cut we measured how much of the pavilion, seen face-down, is steeper than amethyst's critical angle of 40.4°, so that head-on light reflects instead of leaking out of the back. Weights are for each model at its reference size.
| Cut | Category | Pavilion reflecting head-on light | Weight | Verdict | Files |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BL-Vitruvio Cut | Brilliants | 100% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Emerald Cut | Jewellery cuts | 100% | 1.14 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Princess Cut | Jewellery cuts | 100% | 1.09 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D |
| T105 Round Brilliant Cut | Brilliants | 100% | 1.38 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| T57 Round Brilliant Cut | Historic cuts | 100% | 1.36 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| T73 Round Brilliant Cut | Brilliants | 100% | 1.50 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Triangle Cut | Jewellery cuts | 100% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Old European Cut | Historic cuts | 100% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Old Mine Cut | Historic cuts | 100% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Mazarin Cut | Historic cuts | 99% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Old Single Cut | Historic cuts | 99% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Peruzzi Cut | Historic cuts | 99% | 1.51 ct | Holds head-on light | 3D + cutting |
| Hexagon Cut | Jewellery cuts | 89% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Octagon Cut | Jewellery cuts | 89% | 1.51 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Radiant Square Cut | Jewellery cuts | 89% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Cushion Cut | Jewellery cuts | 85% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D |
| Emerald Square Cut | Jewellery cuts | 81% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Heart Cut | Jewellery cuts | 79% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D |
| Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut | Jewellery cuts | 78% | 1.51 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Baguette Cut | Jewellery cuts | 78% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Trilliant Cut | Jewellery cuts | 77% | 1.16 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| BL-Anteros Cut | Brilliants | 76% | 1.44 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Trillion Cut | Jewellery cuts | 72% | 1.51 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Square Cut | Jewellery cuts | 68% | 1.17 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Asscher Cut | Jewellery cuts | 56% | 1.14 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Pear Cut | Jewellery cuts | 52% | 1.20 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Marquise Cut | Jewellery cuts | 43% | 1.20 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Teardrop Cut | Jewellery cuts | 43% | 1.20 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
| Oval Cut | Jewellery cuts | 39% | 1.21 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D |
| Radiant Cut | Jewellery cuts | 29% | 1.51 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D |
| Rectangle Cut | Jewellery cuts | 19% | 1.18 ct | Steepen the pavilion | 3D + cutting |
Amethyst: questions
What pavilion angle should I use for amethyst?
For a round design, about 43.5° or steeper. That is the angle at which head-on light meets both sides of the pavilion above amethyst's critical angle of 40.4° and reflects twice before leaving through the crown. Fancy shapes vary, which is why every cut page lists its own figure.
What is the critical angle of amethyst?
40.4°, from a refractive index of 1.544. Light striking a facet from inside the stone at less than this angle from the facet's normal passes out; above it, it reflects.
Which cuts work best in amethyst?
12 of our 31 cuts reflect head-on light from their whole pavilion in amethyst, including BL-Vitruvio Cut, Emerald Cut, Princess Cut, T105 Round Brilliant Cut, T57 Round Brilliant Cut, T73 Round Brilliant Cut.
How much does amethyst weigh compared with diamond?
Amethyst has a specific gravity of about 2.65 against diamond's 3.52, so a stone of the same size weighs about 0.75 times as much as the diamond.