Brilliance 12 · Fire 64 · Scintillation 86 · in our census, where the T73 scores 72 · 36 · 80 in amethyst
A deep, long brilliant: in quartz it splits a larger share of its returned light into colour than the round, and returns less light than any other cut we measure in amethyst.
DG-Bowtie is our first marquise design, kept under its own name when the Marquise was remodelled. Our model is 2.059 times as long as it is wide, with 87 facets on a 42.0° pavilion, and 93.8% deep: nearly as deep as it is wide.
It is here to study beside the remodelled Marquise Cut Amethyst, and to render when a dark bow-tie across the middle is what you want to show.
Besides being a quarter lighter than diamond, it has two strengths the census measures in amethyst, fire and sparkle, and a brilliance figure lower than any other cut in this stone.
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst and with the DG-Bowtie in diamond. A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation, Symmetry), 4% (face-up size per carat) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within 5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
At a glance: the DG-Bowtie in amethyst (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst (dashed): solid white where it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: ahead on 2, behind on 6.
Fire 64 against 36 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: 28 points higher
Long facets and a deep pavilion throw the light that returns into broad flashes of colour. Only the oval scores more fire in amethyst, and DG-Elongated Hexagon ties it. With so little light returning, those flashes sit in a dark stone.
DG-Bowtie in amethyst · Fire 64
T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst · Fire 36
2.38 ct at 6.5 mm, against 3.16 ct for the same cut in diamond (−25%)
A stone 93.8% deep and 2.059 times as long as wide carries a lot of quartz, and quartz weighs a quarter less than diamond for the same size.
Try it yourself: Weights in all seven gemstones on the DG-Bowtie page
Scintillation 86 against 80 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: 6 points higher
87 facets along a long outline give our scintillation score more to count than the T73's 73. The diamond version scores the same.
DG-Bowtie · 87 facets · Scintillation 86
T73 Round Brilliant · 73 facets · Scintillation 80
Try it yourself: Compare the Scintillation spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel
Brilliance 12 against 72 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: 60 points lower
The census finds a sixth of the T73's light. A pavilion this deep sends much of it past the eye, and in quartz much of the rest leaves through the back.
DG-Bowtie in amethyst · Brilliance 12
T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst · Brilliance 72
What helps: Our census holds DG-Bowtie at these angles only. In a marquise outline, the remodelled Marquise Cut Amethyst returns 38; for a long stone, the Oval Cut Amethyst 52.
Try it yourself: Open this Light Return map in the simulator
Leakage 70 against 28 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst: 42 points higher
In diamond the same model loses 36%; in amethyst, 70%, roughly twice that share.
DG-Bowtie in amethyst · Leakage 70
T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst · Leakage 28
What helps: A small DG-Bowtie leaks the same share as a large one. In amethyst the Oval Cut Amethyst loses 43%, a long outline that holds more.
Try it yourself: Tilt it yourself in the simulator's light map
Tilt 68 against 83 for the DG-Bowtie in diamond: 15 points lower
Tipped by 20°, it keeps 68 of its face-up light against 83 in diamond. With brilliance this low, the share it keeps is of a small amount.
DG-Bowtie in amethyst · Tilt 68
DG-Bowtie in diamond · Tilt 83
What helps: The T105 Round Brilliant Amethyst holds 87 when tipped, with far more light to hold.
Try it yourself: Compare the Tilt spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel
Face-up size 92 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in amethyst (T73 = 100): 8% less face-up area for the same weight
At 93.8% deep, a carat of DG-Bowtie covers less area face-up than a carat of T73, despite the long outline. The remodelled Marquise covers more than any other cut we measure, level with the rectangle.
DG-Bowtie · 10.02 x 4.87 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 92
T73 Round Brilliant · 7.12 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 100
What helps: Choose by millimetres. In the same outline, the Marquise Cut Amethyst faces up at 121.
Try it yourself: See its size at 1.00 ct in amethyst in the 3D Gemstone Simulator
DG-Bowtie is a study piece: for renders, for teaching, and for showing what a very deep marquise does. As a gemstone in amethyst, it returns the least light we measure.
For a marquise to set, the remodelled Marquise Cut Amethyst; for a long amethyst with more light, the Oval Cut Amethyst; for most of this fire with far more light, DG-Anteros Amethyst (54 against 64).
As a study piece, yes; as a bright stone, no: Brilliance 12 against 72 for the T73, the lowest of any cut we measure in amethyst.
Our model is meant to: it keeps a deep marquise geometry that shows a dark band across the middle. We have no metric that scores a bow-tie, so this answer carries no figure.
The Marquise returns more light (38 against 12), leaks less (59% against 70%) and faces up larger per carat; DG-Bowtie has more fire (64 against 48).
2.38 ct, against 3.16 ct in diamond: a long, deep stone.
The DG-Bowtie Cut as exact geometry: 87 planar facets, real-world scale, ready for CAD, rendering, printing and casting.
The DG-Bowtie Cut as a faceting design: 67 + 20 girdles = 87 facets, 64 index, 2-fold mirror-image symmetry, ready for the machine.
Questions before you buy? Email us.
Amethyst: optical properties and the top ten cuts · The DG-Bowtie: specifications, model and files