Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Emerald Square Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Emerald Square Cut Ruby
Concentric steps, cropped corners and a square outline make the emerald square. Ours has just 49 facets, with a shallow 28.16° pavilion and 61.0% total depth.
Step cuts show a ruby's colour in broad, flat planes rather than in sparkle. In our census this one spreads wide for its weight and keeps more light than the diamond version when tilted. It returns less light than a round, and more of it leaks.
Its pavilion is well below ruby's guide minimum of 36.4°, which is set for round designs; a step cut's long pavilion steps behave differently, and we have not measured a steeper version.
Is an emerald square cut good for ruby? Pros and cons
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby and with the Emerald Square Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Emerald Square Cut in ruby (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: ahead on 3, level on 1, behind on 4.
Global73, the comparison 79, difference −6
Brilliance71, the comparison 94, difference −23
Fire53, the comparison 37, difference +16
Scintillation72, the comparison 80, difference −8
Spread108, the comparison 100, difference +8
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm94, the comparison 102, difference −8
Tilt86, the comparison 75, difference +11
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Spread 108 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 8 points higher
Spread 108 against 100: the shallow pavilion keeps the stone's weight in its face, so a given carat covers more area.
Emerald Square Cut · 5.49 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 108
T73 Round Brilliant · 6.21 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 100
Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in ruby and are drawn to the same scale, from each cut's own model. Spread is face-up size per carat: a deeper stone carries more weight below the girdle and looks smaller for its weight.
Holds its light better than a diamond emerald square
Tilt 86 against 79 for the Emerald Square Cut in diamond: 7 points higher
Tipped 20°, the ruby keeps 86 of its face-up light, against 79 for the diamond version. Its brilliance is above the diamond's too, 71 against 64, so this is a real gain.
Emerald Square Cut in ruby · Tilt 86
0° · 25% leak
10° · 27% leak
20° · 33% leak
30° · 42% leak
Emerald Square Cut in diamond · Tilt 79
0° · 20% leak
10° · 27% leak
20° · 28% leak
30° · 28% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
Fire 53 against 84 for the Emerald Square Cut in diamond: 31 points lower
Fire 53 against 84. Broad step facets show colour in occasional large flashes, and corundum gives fewer of them than diamond.
Emerald Square Cut in ruby · Fire 53
Emerald Square Cut in diamond · Fire 84
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: A brilliant-cut elongated shape shows more colour in corundum: the Oval Cut Ruby scores 74.
Brilliance 71 against 94 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 23 points lower
Brilliance 71 against 94. A step cut has no brilliant pavilion to send light back in many small reflections.
Emerald Square Cut in ruby · Brilliance 71
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Brilliance 94
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
What helps: A brilliant-cut Cushion Cut Ruby returns 88 in ruby on a similar square footprint. We have no measurements of this step cut with a steeper pavilion, so we cannot say what one would recover.
Leakage 22 against 5 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 17 points higher
The census counts 22% of the light leaving through the back, where the T73 in ruby loses 5%. With the pavilion at 28.16°, below ruby's 34.6° critical angle, light from straight above can pass through.
Emerald Square Cut in ruby · Leakage 22
0° · 25% leak
10° · 27% leak
20° · 33% leak
30° · 42% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Leakage 5
0° · 1% leak
10° · 10% leak
20° · 29% leak
30° · 30% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: Shrinking the stone keeps the same share. The Cushion Cut Ruby loses 11% in ruby.
The emerald square suits a ruby where a calm, architectural face and steady light matter more than brilliance: earrings, or a centre stone in a clean modern setting.