Emerald Cut Ruby: a little more face per carat than a round

Brilliance 65 · Fire 47 · Scintillation 72 · in our census, where the T73 scores 94 · 37 · 80 in ruby

Long steps and cropped corners: in ruby the emerald cut covers slightly more area per carat than a round, and returns a good deal less light.

The Emerald Cut in ruby, rendered at an angle in our 3D Gemstone Simulator under studio light
Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Emerald Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.

Emerald Cut Ruby

An emerald cut lays its facets in parallel steps around a long table, with the corners cut away. Our model has 57 facets, a 41.0° pavilion and 68.6% total depth, at a length-to-width ratio of 1.5.

In ruby it beats the T73 on two counts: per carat it faces up a few per cent larger, and it shows more fire, 47 against 37. Even so, its fire and tilt fall well short of the diamond emerald cut, and its brilliance and symmetry short of the round.

Face-up, the ruby still returns more light than the same cut in diamond, 65 against 55.

Emerald cut ruby: worth it? Pros and cons

Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby and with the Emerald Cut in diamond. A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation, Symmetry), 4% (face-up size per carat) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within 5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.

All eight scores against the T73

At a glance: the Emerald Cut in ruby (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby (dashed): solid white where it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.

Performance wheel: Emerald Cut in ruby, against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby as an outline. Solid white marks where it reaches further, hatching where it falls short. The scores are listed below.50100Global−18Brilliance−29Fire+10Scintillation−8Spread−4Symmetry−36Shape-norm−17Tilt−20

Against the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: ahead on 1, behind on 7.

  • Global61, the comparison 79, difference −18
  • Brilliance65, the comparison 94, difference −29
  • Fire47, the comparison 37, difference +10
  • Scintillation72, the comparison 80, difference −8
  • Spread96, the comparison 100, difference −4
  • Symmetry64, the comparison 100, difference −36
  • Shape-norm85, the comparison 102, difference −17
  • Tilt55, the comparison 75, difference −20
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring. Spread is the census's estimate from depth alone; the face-up size in the pros and cons is measured from each model's outline.

What ruby gains in an emerald cut

Slightly larger face for its weight

Face-up size 105 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby (T73 = 100): 5% more face-up area for the same weight

The long table and stepped outline put more of the weight into the face than a round's cone-shaped pavilion does. The gain is small; the rectangle, on nearly the same length-to-width ratio but shallower and with square corners, reaches 121.

Emerald Cut · 7.06 x 4.71 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 105

T73 Round Brilliant · 6.21 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 100

Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in ruby and are drawn to the same scale in millimetres, from each cut's own model. Face-up size is the outline's area per carat, with the T73 at 100: a deeper stone, or a rounder outline, spreads less area for its weight.

Try it yourself: See its size at 1.00 ct in ruby in the 3D Gemstone Simulator

The emerald cut's costs in ruby

Far less fire than a diamond emerald cut

Fire 47 against 87 for the Emerald Cut in diamond: 40 points lower

Corundum's dispersion is 0.018, under half of diamond's 0.044, and broad steps give few chances to show what colour there is. Against the round ruby it still wins, 47 to 37; the gap that counts is to diamond.

Emerald cut in ruby face-up under a single bright light: a render from our simulator, its coloured flashes are the fire (score 47)

Emerald Cut in ruby · Fire 47

Emerald cut in diamond face-up under a single bright light: a render from our simulator, its coloured flashes are the fire (score 87)

Emerald Cut in diamond · Fire 87

Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.

What helps: The gap to diamond comes with the material: the census swaps the whole stone, not one property. Among ruby cuts that keep close to the T73's light, the most fire is the Trilliant Cut Ruby at 52, only a few points above this stone.

Try it yourself: See the fire in the 3D Gemstone Simulator

A less even pavilion than a round

Symmetry 64 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 36 points lower

Step cuts mix long and short steps, so fewer facets repeat exactly. The score is the same in every stone, because it belongs to the design.

Emerald Cut · 57 facets · Symmetry 64

T73 Round Brilliant · 73 facets · Symmetry 100

Symmetry scores how regular the pavilion facets are within the design. Compare how evenly the facets repeat around each pavilion. Drawn from each cut's own model.

What helps: It is the design, not a fault. The Asscher Cut Ruby, with concentric square steps, scores 100.

Try it yourself: Compare the Symmetry spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel

Much less light than a round ruby

Brilliance 65 against 94 for the T73 Round Brilliant in ruby: 29 points lower

A stepped pavilion returns light in a few broad reflections rather than many crossed ones, and some of what enters the table finds its way out at the back: 25% in our census, against 5% for the T73.

Emerald cut in ruby face-up Light Return map: red, green and blue show where the light returns from, grey shows where it leaks (Brilliance 65)

Emerald Cut in ruby · Brilliance 65

T73 round brilliant in ruby face-up Light Return map: red, green and blue show where the light returns from, grey shows where it leaks (Brilliance 94)

T73 Round Brilliant in ruby · Brilliance 94

Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.

What helps: The pavilion is already 41.0°, above ruby's guide minimum of 36.4°, so a steeper one is not what our data points to. For a step-cut look with more light, the Emerald Square Cut Ruby returns 71; for the most, DG-M5 Ruby returns 100.

Try it yourself: Open this Light Return map in the simulator

Gives up more light when tipped than in diamond

Tilt 55 against 83 for the Emerald Cut in diamond: 28 points lower

Tipped by 20°, the ruby keeps a smaller share of its face-up light than the diamond emerald cut. Only the teardrop holds less of it on our ruby pages, 52, and the pear ties at 55.

Emerald Cut in ruby · Tilt 55

Emerald cut in ruby tilted 0 degrees: Light Return map, 22% of the face leaking0° · 22% leak
Emerald cut in ruby tilted 10 degrees: Light Return map, 30% of the face leaking10° · 30% leak
Emerald cut in ruby tilted 20 degrees: Light Return map, 56% of the face leaking20° · 56% leak
Emerald cut in ruby tilted 30 degrees: Light Return map, 60% of the face leaking30° · 60% leak

Emerald Cut in diamond · Tilt 83

Emerald cut in diamond tilted 0 degrees: Light Return map, 31% of the face leaking0° · 31% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 10 degrees: Light Return map, 31% of the face leaking10° · 31% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 20 degrees: Light Return map, 38% of the face leaking20° · 38% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 30 degrees: Light Return map, 44% of the face leaking30° · 44% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.

What helps: Of the ruby cuts that stay close to the T73's light, DG-Miliano Ruby keeps the most when tipped, 83.

Try it yourself: Compare the Tilt spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel

Who an emerald cut ruby suits

The emerald cut suits a ruby chosen to show its colour plainly in long steps, set where it is seen mostly face-up. It covers a little more area per carat than a round and returns more light than the same cut in diamond.

If light comes first, choose a round: DG-M5 Ruby or the T73 Round Brilliant Ruby. For a rectangle with more face per carat, the Rectangle Cut Ruby reaches 121, though it returns less light, 41.

Emerald Cut Ruby: questions

Is an emerald cut good for ruby?

It returns less light than a round, Brilliance 65 against 94, and faces up a little larger per carat, 105 against 100.

Does an emerald cut ruby look bigger than a round one?

Slightly, for the same weight: measured from the model's outline, it covers 105 where the T73 covers 100.

Emerald cut ruby or emerald cut diamond?

The ruby returns more light face-up (65 against 55); the diamond has far more fire (87 against 47) and holds its light better when tilted.

What does a 6.5 mm wide emerald cut ruby weigh?

Our model gives 2.63 ct at that width. In diamond it would be 2.31 ct.

Get the Emerald Cut files

6 formatsMillimetresWatertight

Emerald Cut 3D files

The Emerald Cut as exact geometry: 57 planar facets, real-world scale, ready for CAD, rendering, printing and casting.

  • STEPExact faceted solid for CAD
  • 3DMRhino, closed mesh on its own layer
  • STLWatertight mesh for printing and casting
  • OBJMesh for modelling and rendering
  • FBXBlender, 3ds Max, Maya, Cinema 4D, Unity, Unreal
  • GLBWeb, AR and quick previews
€9.99 · Personal useBuy the 3D files
GemCad64 index

Emerald Cut cutting files

The Emerald Cut as a faceting design: 49 + 8 girdles = 57 facets, 64 index, 2-fold mirror-image symmetry, ready for the machine.

  • .ascGemCad design file, 64 index gear
  • .csvTier table: angles, indices and cutting order
  • DiagramPrintable faceting diagram
€9.99 · Personal useBuy the cutting files

Questions before you buy? Email us.

More gemstones and cuts

Ruby: optical properties and the top ten cuts · The Emerald Cut: specifications, model and files

Other cuts in ruby

The Emerald Cut in other gemstones