Emerald Cut Sapphire: a long step cut that faces up a little larger for its weight

Brilliance 65 · Fire 47 · Scintillation 72 · in our census, where the T73 scores 94 · 37 · 80 in sapphire

Broad steps on a long outline: in sapphire the emerald cut shows a little more face than a round of its weight, and returns a little over two-thirds of the round's light.

The Emerald Cut in sapphire, rendered at an angle in our 3D Gemstone Simulator under studio light
Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Emerald Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.

Emerald Cut Sapphire

The emerald cut is a rectangular step cut whose cropped corners protect the stone where it is weakest. Our model runs 1.5 to 1 with 57 facets; it is 68.6% deep, on a 41.0° pavilion figure.

In sapphire it has one pro, and seven scores count as cons; the four largest are shown. The pro is size for weight. Two of the four, fire and tilt, come from the same cut in diamond; the other two, light and symmetry, from the T73 Round Brilliant. Leakage, 25% against the T73's 5%, is among the three not shown.

Its pavilion is steeper than sapphire's 36.4° guide minimum.

Is an emerald cut right for a sapphire? Pros and cons

Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire and with the Emerald Cut in diamond. A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation, Symmetry), 4% (face-up size per carat) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within 5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.

All eight scores against the T73

At a glance: the Emerald Cut in sapphire (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire (dashed): solid white where it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.

Performance wheel: Emerald Cut in sapphire, against the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire as an outline. Solid white marks where it reaches further, hatching where it falls short. The scores are listed below.50100Global−18Brilliance−29Fire+10Scintillation−8Spread−4Symmetry−36Shape-norm−17Tilt−20

Against the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire: ahead on 1, behind on 7.

  • Global61, the comparison 79, difference −18
  • Brilliance65, the comparison 94, difference −29
  • Fire47, the comparison 37, difference +10
  • Scintillation72, the comparison 80, difference −8
  • Spread96, the comparison 100, difference −4
  • Symmetry64, the comparison 100, difference −36
  • Shape-norm85, the comparison 102, difference −17
  • Tilt55, the comparison 75, difference −20
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring. Spread is the census's estimate from depth alone; the face-up size in the pros and cons is measured from each model's outline.

What a sapphire gains as an emerald cut

Faces up a little larger for its weight

Face-up size 105 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire (T73 = 100): 5% more face-up area for the same weight

Measured from each model's outline, a carat of this emerald cut covers slightly more area than the T73's round face, though the model is deeper, 68.6% against 61.7%. Both outlines below weigh 1.00 ct and share a scale in millimetres.

Emerald Cut · 7.06 x 4.71 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 105

T73 Round Brilliant · 6.21 mm at 1.00 ct · Face-up size 100

Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in sapphire and are drawn to the same scale in millimetres, from each cut's own model. Face-up size is the outline's area per carat, with the T73 at 100: a deeper stone, or a rounder outline, spreads less area for its weight.

Try it yourself: See its size at 1.00 ct in sapphire in the 3D Gemstone Simulator

The catch with an emerald cut sapphire

Far less fire than the diamond emerald cut

Fire 47 against 87 for the Emerald Cut in diamond: 40 points lower

The census changes the whole material, refractive index and dispersion together, so it does not say how much of the gap from 87 to 47 is dispersion. Wide step facets show what colour there is in broad panes. Against the T73 in sapphire it still scores higher, 47 against 37.

Emerald cut in sapphire face-up under a single bright light: a render from our simulator, its coloured flashes are the fire (score 47)

Emerald Cut in sapphire · Fire 47

Emerald cut in diamond face-up under a single bright light: a render from our simulator, its coloured flashes are the fire (score 87)

Emerald Cut in diamond · Fire 87

Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.

What helps: Of the cuts that keep close to the T73's light in sapphire, the Trilliant Cut Sapphire has the most fire, 52.

Try it yourself: See the fire in the 3D Gemstone Simulator

A less regular pavilion than a round

Symmetry 64 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire: 36 points lower

Our symmetry score reads how regularly the pavilion facets repeat within the design, and in this model they repeat less regularly than in a round. A long outline alone does not explain it: the square-cornered Rectangle is as long and scores 100. Among our sapphire cuts, only the baguette and the trilliant score lower.

Emerald Cut · 57 facets · Symmetry 64

T73 Round Brilliant · 73 facets · Symmetry 100

Symmetry scores how regular the pavilion facets are within the design. Compare how evenly the facets repeat around each pavilion. Drawn from each cut's own model.

What helps: This is the design, though not the cropped corners alone: the Emerald Square Cut Sapphire keeps them on a square outline and scores 100.

Try it yourself: Compare the Symmetry spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel

About a third less light than the T73

Brilliance 65 against 94 for the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire: 29 points lower

Brilliance 65 against 94. The same emerald cut returns less in diamond, 55, so the loss comes with the cut rather than with sapphire.

Emerald cut in sapphire face-up Light Return map: red, green and blue show where the light returns from, grey shows where it leaks (Brilliance 65)

Emerald Cut in sapphire · Brilliance 65

T73 round brilliant in sapphire face-up Light Return map: red, green and blue show where the light returns from, grey shows where it leaks (Brilliance 94)

T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire · Brilliance 94

Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.

What helps: The pavilion is already at 41.0°; we have not measured a steeper emerald cut. On a square, the Emerald Square Cut Sapphire returns 71; for the most light, DG-M5 Sapphire at 100.

Try it yourself: Open this Light Return map in the simulator

Darkens faster than the diamond version when tipped

Tilt 55 against 83 for the Emerald Cut in diamond: 28 points lower

Tilted 20°, it keeps 55 of its face-up light, where the diamond emerald cut keeps 83. Only the teardrop holds less in our sapphire census, and the pear is level.

Emerald Cut in sapphire · Tilt 55

Emerald cut in sapphire tilted 0 degrees: Light Return map, 22% of the face leaking0° · 22% leak
Emerald cut in sapphire tilted 10 degrees: Light Return map, 30% of the face leaking10° · 30% leak
Emerald cut in sapphire tilted 20 degrees: Light Return map, 56% of the face leaking20° · 56% leak
Emerald cut in sapphire tilted 30 degrees: Light Return map, 60% of the face leaking30° · 60% leak

Emerald Cut in diamond · Tilt 83

Emerald cut in diamond tilted 0 degrees: Light Return map, 31% of the face leaking0° · 31% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 10 degrees: Light Return map, 31% of the face leaking10° · 31% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 20 degrees: Light Return map, 38% of the face leaking20° · 38% leak
Emerald cut in diamond tilted 30 degrees: Light Return map, 44% of the face leaking30° · 44% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.

What helps: DG-Rafaello Sapphire keeps 81 when tipped, with 85 brilliance, though it is a round rather than a step cut.

Try it yourself: Compare the Tilt spoke in the Cut Performance Wheel

Who an emerald cut sapphire suits

The emerald cut suits a sapphire with even, saturated colour, set where it is seen face-up: its long table shows the body colour in broad panes rather than flashes.

If light matters more than the outline, a round returns far more: DG-M5 Sapphire or the T73 Round Brilliant Sapphire. For a step cut with a regular pavilion and more light, the Emerald Square Cut Sapphire.

Step facets show inclusions and colour zoning plainly, so this outline asks for clean, evenly coloured rough.

Emerald Cut Sapphire: questions

Is an emerald cut good for sapphire?

For face-up size, a little: 105 against 100 for the T73. For light it trails: Brilliance 65 against 94.

Does an emerald cut sapphire have fire?

Some: Fire 47, above the T73's 37 in sapphire but far below the 87 of the same cut in diamond.

Emerald cut or Asscher for a sapphire?

The Asscher returns a little more light (68 against 65) and holds it far better when tipped (85 against 55); the emerald cut faces up larger, 105 against 102.

What does a 6.5 mm wide emerald cut sapphire weigh?

2.63 ct for our 1.5 to 1 model; the same stone in diamond would be 2.31 ct.

Get the Emerald Cut files

6 formatsMillimetresWatertight

Emerald Cut 3D files

The Emerald Cut as exact geometry: 57 planar facets, real-world scale, ready for CAD, rendering, printing and casting.

  • STEPExact faceted solid for CAD
  • 3DMRhino, closed mesh on its own layer
  • STLWatertight mesh for printing and casting
  • OBJMesh for modelling and rendering
  • FBXBlender, 3ds Max, Maya, Cinema 4D, Unity, Unreal
  • GLBWeb, AR and quick previews
€9.99 · Personal useBuy the 3D files
GemCad64 index

Emerald Cut cutting files

The Emerald Cut as a faceting design: 49 + 8 girdles = 57 facets, 64 index, 2-fold mirror-image symmetry, ready for the machine.

  • .ascGemCad design file, 64 index gear
  • .csvTier table: angles, indices and cutting order
  • DiagramPrintable faceting diagram
€9.99 · Personal useBuy the cutting files

Questions before you buy? Email us.

More gemstones and cuts

Sapphire: optical properties and the top ten cuts · The Emerald Cut: specifications, model and files

Other cuts in sapphire

The Emerald Cut in other gemstones