Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the T57 Round Brilliant model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
T57 Round Brilliant Sapphire
The T57 is the round brilliant before the faceted girdle: table, 8 stars, 8 bezels, 16 upper halves, 8 pavilion mains and 16 lower halves, to the proportions published in 1919. Measured, our model has a 40.75° pavilion and a total depth of 59.2%.
In sapphire it returns exactly what the T73 does, 94 for light, and loses a few points of sparkle for want of the girdle facets. The other cons are sapphire's, set against the same cut in diamond.
Is the T57 a good round for sapphire? Pros and cons
Pros
None by our margins: light is level with the T73, Brilliance 94.
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire and with the T57 Round Brilliant in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the T57 Round Brilliant in sapphire (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in sapphire: ahead on 2, level on 2, behind on 4.
Global78, the comparison 79, difference −1
Brilliance94, the comparison 94, difference 0
Fire39, the comparison 37, difference +2
Scintillation72, the comparison 80, difference −8
Spread101, the comparison 100, difference +1
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm101, the comparison 102, difference −1
Tilt74, the comparison 75, difference −1
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Against neither baseline, the T73 in sapphire or the T57 in diamond, does any score clear our margins. Brilliance ties at 94, and fire, 39 against 37, sits a couple of points over the T73: inside our margin. What the T57 offers is the historical plan itself, for period work, teaching and comparison.
Where the T57 falls short in sapphire
Half the fire of the diamond T57
Fire 39 against 79 for the T57 Round Brilliant in diamond: 40 points lower
The T57 scores 79 in diamond and 39 in sapphire. The facets are identical; corundum simply fans the spectrum out less than half as wide.
T57 Round Brilliant in sapphire · Fire 39
T57 Round Brilliant in diamond · Fire 79
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: Corundum limits any round; DG-Anteros Sapphire tops our sapphire rounds at 43.
Tilt 74 against 90 for the T57 Round Brilliant in diamond: 16 points lower
At 20° the sapphire keeps 74 of its face-up light and the diamond 90. Sapphire's lower refractive index lets light through pavilion facets that diamond would reflect.
T57 Round Brilliant in sapphire · Tilt 74
0° · 1% leak
10° · 11% leak
20° · 30% leak
30° · 30% leak
T57 Round Brilliant in diamond · Tilt 90
0° · 4% leak
10° · 2% leak
20° · 10% leak
30° · 16% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
Scintillation follows the number of facets: more facets, more and smaller flashes as the stone moves. Count the facets in each crown. Drawn from each cut's own model.
The T57 in sapphire suits period reproductions and anyone studying how the brilliant developed. The knife-edge girdle needs a setting that covers it; sapphire is hard, at 9, but an exposed edge can still nick.