Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Square Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Square Cut Emerald
Our square brilliant has a full facet set, 69 facets, a 41.39° pavilion and a depth of 65.0%. The pavilion is about two degrees steeper than emerald's 39.4° guide minimum.
In emerald it keeps 85 of its face-up light when tipped, more than the T73's 77. With Brilliance 68 against 78, we do not count that as a pro, but it is a steady stone.
Against the same square in diamond the gap is largest on fire, and roughly half that on light and leakage. The cut is the same in both, so those gaps belong to emerald: its 39.4° critical angle and its 0.014 dispersion.
Square brilliant emerald: worth choosing? Pros and cons
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald and with the Square Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Square Cut in emerald (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: ahead on 2, level on 1, behind on 5.
Global70, the comparison 73, difference −3
Brilliance68, the comparison 78, difference −10
Fire38, the comparison 39, difference −1
Scintillation78, the comparison 80, difference −2
Spread98, the comparison 100, difference −2
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm90, the comparison 84, difference +6
Tilt85, the comparison 77, difference +8
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Fire 38 against 72 for the Square Cut in diamond: 34 points lower
Fire 38 against 72. Emerald disperses light weakly, and the square plan adds none back: it is level with the T73 in emerald, 39.
Square Cut in emerald · Fire 38
Square Cut in diamond · Fire 72
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
What helps: Not in a square outline: emerald's fire peaks in the Oval Cut Emerald, at 71.
Brilliance 68 against 85 for the Square Cut in diamond: 17 points lower
68 against 85. Light that diamond turns back at 24.4° needs 39.4° in emerald, and some of it never gets there.
Square Cut in emerald · Brilliance 68
Square Cut in diamond · Brilliance 85
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
What helps: Of the square outlines, the Cushion Cut Emerald returns 74 in emerald.
Leakage 26 against 10 for the Square Cut in diamond: 16 points higher
26% of the light in our census, against 10% for the square in diamond.
Square Cut in emerald · Leakage 26
0° · 17% leak
10° · 33% leak
20° · 34% leak
30° · 38% leak
Square Cut in diamond · Leakage 10
0° · 7% leak
10° · 11% leak
20° · 16% leak
30° · 22% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: A steeper pavilion is not the remedy: this one is already above 39.4°. The Cushion Cut Emerald leaks 25%.
Spread 98 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: 2 points lower
At 65.0% deep the square carries extra weight under the girdle, so for a given carat weight it is a little narrower than a T73.
Square Cut · 6.78 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 98
T73 Round Brilliant · 7.06 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 100
Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in emerald and are drawn to the same scale, from each cut's own model. Spread is face-up size per carat: a deeper stone carries more weight below the girdle and looks smaller for its weight.
What helps: Buy by millimetres; at 6.5 mm the square is 0.88 ct.