Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Oval Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Oval Cut Emerald
The oval stretches the brilliant plan along one axis: our model is 1.331 times as long as it is wide, with 93 facets and a 40.99° pavilion, 64.0% deep.
Emerald disperses light weakly, so fire is usually the score it gives away. The oval is the exception in our census: Fire 71, against 39 for the T73 in emerald. Why the elongated plan does this, the census does not say; it measures that it does. On the other side of the ledger, it returns 55 to the T73's 78.
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald and with the Oval Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Oval Cut in emerald (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: ahead on 2, behind on 6.
Global69, the comparison 73, difference −4
Brilliance55, the comparison 78, difference −23
Fire71, the comparison 39, difference +32
Scintillation87, the comparison 80, difference +7
Spread99, the comparison 100, difference −1
Symmetry98, the comparison 100, difference −2
Shape-norm64, the comparison 84, difference −20
Tilt71, the comparison 77, difference −6
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Fire 71 against 39 for the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: 32 points higher
In our census the oval returns more colour to the eye than any other cut we measure in emerald, rounds included. It is still a long way from the same oval in diamond, at 92.
Oval Cut in emerald · Fire 71
T73 Round Brilliant in emerald · Fire 39
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
Scintillation follows the number of facets: more facets, more and smaller flashes as the stone moves. Count the facets in each crown. Drawn from each cut's own model.
Brilliance 55 against 78 for the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: 23 points lower
55 against 78. Ovals are prone to a darker band across the middle, which we do not score; the census figure covers the whole face. Oddly, the same oval in diamond returns less, 47.
Oval Cut in emerald · Brilliance 55
T73 Round Brilliant in emerald · Brilliance 78
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
Tilt 71 against 92 for the Oval Cut in diamond: 21 points lower
Tilted 20°, it keeps 71 of its face-up light; the diamond oval keeps 92.
Oval Cut in emerald · Tilt 71
0° · 36% leak
10° · 46% leak
20° · 49% leak
30° · 60% leak
Oval Cut in diamond · Tilt 92
0° · 31% leak
10° · 31% leak
20° · 32% leak
30° · 35% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: Ovals are mostly seen face-up in a ring; the loss shows at an angle. For a steadier fancy shape, the Square Cut Emerald keeps 85 at 68 brilliance.
Leakage 41 against 22 for the T73 Round Brilliant in emerald: 19 points higher
41% in our census, nearly twice the T73's 22% in emerald. The pavilion figure is 40.99°, above the 39.4° guide minimum for round designs, so a shallow main angle is not the obvious cause.
Oval Cut in emerald · Leakage 41
0° · 36% leak
10° · 46% leak
20° · 49% leak
30° · 60% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in emerald · Leakage 22
0° · 11% leak
10° · 34% leak
20° · 32% leak
30° · 37% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: The share follows the angles, not the size. The Cushion Cut Emerald leaks 25%.
If colour flashing across the face is what you want from an emerald, the oval is the cut our census backs: no other we measure scores higher for fire in this stone. It suits a ring where the stone is seen face-up and the elongated outline is welcome.