Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Asscher Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Asscher Cut Cubic Zirconia
The Asscher is a square step cut with deeply cropped corners, which give it an octagonal outline and concentric reflections. The model's 58 facets sit on a stone 60.4% deep, with a 27.6° pavilion.
Step cuts follow different rules from brilliants, and that low pavilion figure is not comparable with the 38.1° guide minimum we give for rounds. The light maps show the result plainly: grey from the start, and more of it as the stone tips.
Against the T73 in CZ, the light gap is wide. Against the Asscher in diamond, CZ wins on fire and returns a little more light.
Does an Asscher cut suit cubic zirconia? Pros and cons
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia and with the Asscher Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Asscher Cut in cubic zirconia (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: ahead on 2, level on 1, behind on 5.
Global81, the comparison 93, difference −12
Brilliance74, the comparison 98, difference −24
Fire88, the comparison 87, difference +1
Scintillation72, the comparison 80, difference −8
Spread107, the comparison 100, difference +7
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm97, the comparison 106, difference −9
Tilt77, the comparison 87, difference −10
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Fire 88 against 80 for the Asscher Cut in diamond: 8 points higher
Broad steps and CZ's stronger dispersion put more colour into each reflection than the diamond render shows. Against the T73 in CZ the two are about level.
Asscher Cut in cubic zirconia · Fire 88
Asscher Cut in diamond · Fire 80
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
Spread 107 against 100 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 7 points higher
For a given carat weight its face is wider than the T73's. The outlines at 1 ct, drawn to scale, show the Asscher's square beside the round.
Asscher Cut · 4.99 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 107
T73 Round Brilliant · 5.49 mm at 1.00 ct · Spread 100
Both stones weigh 1.00 ct in cubic zirconia and are drawn to the same scale, from each cut's own model. Spread is face-up size per carat: a deeper stone carries more weight below the girdle and looks smaller for its weight.
Brilliance 74 against 98 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 24 points lower
Head-on, a fifth of the Asscher's map is grey, where the T73's map has none. The steps return light in large planes rather than collecting it as a brilliant pavilion does.
Asscher Cut in cubic zirconia · Brilliance 74
T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia · Brilliance 98
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
Leakage 15 against 1 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 14 points higher
15% in our census, against 1% for the T73. The strip shows grey face-up, about level to 20°, then a third of the map by 30°.
Asscher Cut in cubic zirconia · Leakage 15
0° · 20% leak
10° · 23% leak
20° · 23% leak
30° · 34% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia · Leakage 1
0° · 0% leak
10° · 1% leak
20° · 9% leak
30° · 21% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: We have no measurements of a steeper Asscher. DG-Octagonal Kite Cubic Zirconia leaks 5% with a similar eight-sided outline.
Tilt 77 against 87 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 10 points lower
Tilted, it keeps 77 of its face-up light against 87 for the T73 in CZ. At 30° the diamond Asscher's map shows less grey than the CZ's.
Asscher Cut in cubic zirconia · Tilt 77
0° · 20% leak
10° · 23% leak
20° · 23% leak
30° · 34% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia · Tilt 87
0° · 0% leak
10° · 1% leak
20° · 9% leak
30° · 21% leak
Tilt is how much of its own face-up light a stone keeps when tilted. Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
Choose the Asscher in CZ for the Art Deco look and a face that is large for its weight, and accept the grey in its light map. CZ is usually clean inside, which suits a step cut.