Rendered in our 3D Gemstone Simulator from the Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut model, 1.00 ct, studio light.
Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut Cubic Zirconia
The Portuguese cut is sixteen-fold, with five tiers above the girdle and five below, each offset half a step so the facets interlock like a woven nest. Our model has a 48.9% table, a low 26.0° crown and a 38.0° pavilion, and is 63.1% deep.
That pavilion figure sits right at CZ's guide minimum of 38.1°, and 16% of the light leaks. Whether a steeper pavilion would help we cannot say: we have not measured one.
Tipped, it reads Tilt 100, the top of the scale. From Brilliance 83 that is a share of a smaller amount than the T73 holds, so we do not count it as a pro.
Does cubic zirconia work in a Portuguese Bird's Nest cut?
Compared with the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia and with the Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in diamond.
A difference counts from 3 points (Brilliance, Fire, Tilt, Leakage), 5 (Scintillation,
Symmetry), 2 (Spread) or 5% (weight); Tilt counts as a pro only for a stone within
5 points of the brilliance it is compared with. How we measure.
All eight scores against the T73
At a glance: the Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in cubic zirconia (white) against the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia (dashed): solid white where
it reaches further, hatched where it falls short. Each pro and con is explained, with pictures, below.
Against the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: ahead on 2, level on 2, behind on 4.
Global88, the comparison 93, difference −5
Brilliance83, the comparison 98, difference −15
Fire79, the comparison 87, difference −8
Scintillation98, the comparison 80, difference +18
Spread100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Symmetry100, the comparison 100, difference 0
Shape-norm90, the comparison 106, difference −16
Tilt100, the comparison 87, difference +13
Face-up light census, a different measure from the Cut Grading Tool; Spread and Shape-norm above 100 sit on the ring.
Scintillation 98 against 80 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 18 points higher
Five interlocking tiers on each side divide the light into far more flashes than the T73's 73 facets can. The crown diagram is dense with small facets.
Scintillation follows the number of facets: more facets, more and smaller flashes as the stone moves. Count the facets in each crown. Drawn from each cut's own model.
Fire 79 against 65 for the Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in diamond: 14 points higher
CZ's 0.060 dispersion, against diamond's 0.044, gives the same flashes more colour. This is fire against diamond, not against the T73 in CZ, which still leads at 87.
Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in cubic zirconia · Fire 79
Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in diamond · Fire 65
Look at the coloured flashes: those are fire. Same light, same size, same face-up angle; rendered by our 3D Gemstone Simulator from each cut's own model.
Brilliance 83 against 98 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 15 points lower
The T73 is close to perfect in CZ, so the gap looks wide; it is also real. With a 26.0° crown and a pavilion at the guide minimum, more light finds a way out than in a modern round.
Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in cubic zirconia · Brilliance 83
T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia · Brilliance 98
Red, green and blue = light returning to the eye; grey = light leaving through the pavilion. This is the head-on view; the Brilliance score averages a wider cone of light, so the score can differ from what one picture shows.
Leakage 16 against 1 for the T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia: 15 points higher
16% of the light leaves through the pavilion in our census, where the T73 in CZ loses 1%. In diamond this cut loses 13%, so CZ makes it a little worse.
Portuguese Bird's Nest Cut in cubic zirconia · Leakage 16
0° · 15% leak
10° · 13% leak
20° · 7% leak
30° · 12% leak
T73 Round Brilliant in cubic zirconia · Leakage 1
0° · 0% leak
10° · 1% leak
20° · 9% leak
30° · 21% leak
Each frame is the Light Return map with the stone tilted away from you by the angle shown; grey is light leaving through the pavilion. The share under each frame is that picture's own.
What helps: Size does not alter the share. DG-Miliano Cubic Zirconia, with the same facet count, leaks 1%.
Choose it for the pattern itself: a showpiece for the faceting machine, and CZ is a forgiving stone to learn its ten tiers on.
If you want the sparkle and the light, DG-Miliano Cubic Zirconia has the same facet count and returns 97. The Bird's Nest has long been a favourite for coloured stones, where its pattern counts for more than light.