How we measure

Gemstone constants

The gemstone pages and the simulator use these values. For stones with a range, the refractive index used is the lower end, which gives the stricter angle limits. Dispersion is the B to G interval (686.7 to 430.8 nm).

Material constants used by the gemstone pages and the simulator
GemstoneRefractive indexBirefringenceDispersionSpecific gravityCritical angle
Diamond2.417None0.0443.5224.4°
Moissanite2.648 to 2.6910.0430.1043.2222.2°
Cubic zirconia2.15 to 2.18None0.0605.6 to 6.0 (5.8 used)27.7°
Ruby1.762 to 1.7700.0080.0184.0034.6°
Sapphire1.762 to 1.7700.0080.0184.0034.6°
Emerald1.577 to 1.5830.0060.0142.7239.4°
Amethyst1.544 to 1.5530.0090.0132.6540.4°

The Brightness & Tilt Analysis and the light census behind the Performance Wheel come from our research engine and use its constants, which differ slightly from the table above:

Material constants used by the light census and the Brightness & Tilt Analysis
GemstoneIndex nFire spread ΔFresnel F0
Diamond2.4170.0380.172
Moissanite2.650.0900.204
Cubic zirconia2.160.0520.135
Ruby and sapphire1.7650.0150.077
Emerald1.5780.012(census only)
Amethyst1.5480.011(census only)

The fire spread is about 0.86 of the published dispersion. F0 is the reflectance at normal incidence, ((n−1)/(n+1))².

Critical angle

Light inside the stone meeting a facet at more than the critical angle from its normal reflects totally:

θc=arcsin1n

Each gemstone page also gives the shallowest pavilion at which a round returns head-on light. In the meridian section, light arriving straight down meets the first pavilion main at the pavilion angle p, the opposite main at 180° − 3p, and the table at |180° − 4p|. It must reflect at the first and leave at the table:

pmin=max(θc,180°−θc4)

That is 38.9° for diamond, 36.4° for ruby and sapphire, and the critical angle itself for emerald and amethyst. Faceters usually cut a degree or two steeper, for light that arrives off the axis.

Head-on light on cut pages

“Pavilion reflecting head-on light” is the share of the pavilion, by projected area, whose facets lie at or above the critical angle from the girdle plane. Light arriving straight down meets each such facet at at least θc and reflects. It is a first-reflection test only. The verdict reads “Holds head-on light” at 99% or more, “Minor windowing” from 90%, and “Steepen the pavilion” below that. A culet flat counts as not reflecting, and a cut with no table is not measured.