Cutting alexandrite
Alexandrite has a refractive index of 1.746 to 1.755 and a dispersion of 0.015, a specific gravity of 3.73 and a hardness of 8.5 on the Mohs scale (orthorhombic crystal system). It is doubly refractive (biaxial), with a birefringence of 0.008 to 0.010. Its critical angle, from the low end of the range, is 34.9°, so a round design needs a pavilion of at least 36.3° for head-on light to reflect off both sides of the pavilion and leave through the table.
Alexandrite shares chrysoberyl's species (chrysoberyl) and its optical constants in our trace (the same refractive index midpoint and the same fire spread), so these are chrysoberyl's figures. So this page ranks the cuts with chrysoberyl's figures, and each cut links its chrysoberyl page. Alexandrite's own constants are in the table below, with their sources.
Alexandrite optical properties
Published values, as on the alexandrite glossary page; they change a little from stone to stone. Where a property has a range, we calculate angles from the lower refractive index. It gives the stricter limit. Sources: GIA · International Gem Society.
The top ten cuts in alexandrite
In alexandrite, the Oval Cut performs best of the 23 jewelry cuts we score: 66 for brilliance, 67 for fire and 87 for scintillation. The Trilliant Cut follows at 85, 45 and 79, then the Trillion Cut at 72, 51 and 80. Of the three, the Trilliant Cut has the highest brilliance and the Oval Cut has the most fire.
| Cut | Brilliance | Fire | Scintillation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oval, Jewelry cut | 66 (T73 benchmark 94) | 67 (T73 benchmark 29) | 87 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Trilliant, Jewelry cut | 85 (T73 benchmark 94) | 45 (T73 benchmark 29) | 79 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Trillion, Jewelry cut | 72 (T73 benchmark 94) | 51 (T73 benchmark 29) | 80 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Teardrop, Jewelry cut | 60 (T73 benchmark 94) | 60 (T73 benchmark 29) | 81 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Cushion, Jewelry cut | 88 (T73 benchmark 94) | 27 (T73 benchmark 29) | 85 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Square, Jewelry cut | 78 (T73 benchmark 94) | 35 (T73 benchmark 29) | 78 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Marquise, Jewelry cut | 54 (T73 benchmark 94) | 51 (T73 benchmark 29) | 86 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Asscher, Jewelry cut | 68 (T73 benchmark 94) | 50 (T73 benchmark 29) | 72 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Emerald Square, Jewelry cut | 72 (T73 benchmark 94) | 45 (T73 benchmark 29) | 72 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Princess, Jewelry cut | 67 (T73 benchmark 94) | 42 (T73 benchmark 29) | 78 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Pear, Jewelry cut | 63 (T73 benchmark 94) | 48 (T73 benchmark 29) | 76 (T73 benchmark 80) |
In alexandrite, the DG-Vitruvio Cut performs best of the 11 brilliants we score: 94 for brilliance, 30 for fire and 98 for scintillation. The DG-M5 Cut follows at 100, 33 and 85, then the DG-Miliano Cut at 89, 30 and 98. Of the three, the DG-M5 Cut has both the highest brilliance and the most fire.
| Cut | Brilliance | Fire | Scintillation |
|---|---|---|---|
| DG-Vitruvio, Brilliant | 94 (T73 benchmark 94) | 30 (T73 benchmark 29) | 98 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| DG-M5, House cut | 100 (T73 benchmark 94) | 33 (T73 benchmark 29) | 85 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| DG-Miliano, House cut | 89 (T73 benchmark 94) | 30 (T73 benchmark 29) | 98 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| DG-Anteros, Brilliant | 97 (T73 benchmark 94) | 38 (T73 benchmark 29) | 80 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| DG-Broken Hearts and Arrows, Brilliant | 95 (T73 benchmark 94) | 29 (T73 benchmark 29) | 86 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| T105 Round Brilliant, Brilliant | 90 (T73 benchmark 94) | 27 (T73 benchmark 29) | 90 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| T73 Round Brilliant, Benchmark | 94 | 29 | 80 |
| DG-Rafaello, House cut | 84 (T73 benchmark 94) | 20 (T73 benchmark 29) | 96 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| T57 Round Brilliant, Historic cut | 94 (T73 benchmark 94) | 31 (T73 benchmark 29) | 72 (T73 benchmark 80) |
| Old European, Historic cut | 78 (T73 benchmark 94) | 31 (T73 benchmark 29) | 81 (T73 benchmark 80) |
Brilliance is the share of face-up light that the stone returns. Fire is the share of that light that splits into color. Both come from our face-up light census. Scintillation is the sparkle that facets give as a stone moves, and we read it from the facets of each cut. We score 37 cuts, the same figures as our Cut Performance Index. The Cut Performance Wheel does not model this stone yet. Mazarin, Peruzzi and Old Mine, historic cushions, are in neither list. Each measured cut’s own page shows its figures in every gemstone we trace. A simulation of the geometry, not a grading report.
Alexandrite: questions
What pavilion angle should I use for alexandrite?
For a round design, at least 36.3°. At that angle or steeper, light that arrives straight down reflects off both sides of the pavilion, beyond the critical angle of alexandrite (34.9°). Then it leaves through the table. The angle is the larger of the critical angle and (180° − critical angle) / 4. Faceters usually cut a degree or two steeper, for light that arrives off the axis. Fancy shapes vary, so every cut page lists its own figure.
Why does alexandrite show chrysoberyl's figures?
Alexandrite shares chrysoberyl's species (chrysoberyl) and its optical constants in our trace (the same refractive index midpoint and the same fire spread), so these are chrysoberyl's figures. Our alias rule: the same species, a refractive index midpoint within 0.005 and a fire spread within 0.002 of the stone whose figures it takes; alexandrite is within 0.000 and 0.000.
What is the critical angle of alexandrite?
34.9°, from a refractive index of 1.746, the low end of its published range. Light that strikes a facet from inside the stone at less than this angle from the normal of the facet passes out. At a larger angle, it reflects.
Which cuts work best in alexandrite?
We add brilliance, fire and scintillation together. By that total, the DG-Vitruvio Cut, the DG-M5 Cut and the DG-Miliano Cut are the best brilliants in alexandrite. By the same total, the best jewelry cuts are the Oval Cut, the Trilliant Cut and the Trillion Cut. We score 37 cuts in all, and this page ranks the top ten of each.
How much does alexandrite weigh compared with diamond?
Alexandrite has a specific gravity of about 3.73, and diamond has 3.52. So a stone of the same size weighs about 1.06 times as much as the diamond.